Collars or Knuckles

What are those decorations called that fit over a picket? I’m asked that question all the time. Those things are called either picket collars or knuckles. They come in so many shapes and sizes. They are a great way to spruce up your design without adding a lot of cost. If you have an area that is more conducive to a small design, then collars/knuckles are just the ticket!

Picket collars/knuckles can be purchased separately, loose, so that they are fabricated on to the picket. You choose the collar/knuckle and then they are slipped over the picket and welded on. Granted, there is labor involved in doing this, but many collars/knuckles are reasonably priced and worth the upgrade.

Another alternative is to choose a pre-made picket that has the collar incorporated into the design. These pickets are more costly but they save on labor, and many come in extraordinary designs. Ask your fabricator to show you some examples. So many of the new designs are really unique and lovely and can make your project become a work of art or a conversation piece.

Picket collars/knuckles can be placed in a pattern on your railing, gate or fencing. It's often the pattern that makes the collar/knuckle interesting. If you use a pattern that is alternating, say one picket collar/knuckle on every other picket, or one at the top and then one at the bottom, then this adds dimension and interest.

If you aren't a scrolly type person then picket collars/knuckles are for you. They are classic in design and can make your project take on the look of old worlde, contemporary, Victorian or even ranch style. Don't be afraid to try them, they'll make your project look complete!

Why Automate?

The luxury of not having to get out of your car, in the pouring rain, to manually open your driveway gate, because you installed an automatic gate operator, is priceless. I know that gate automation is expensive, the operators alone, with so many brands to choose from, are pricey. Then, after you've decided on an operator, there's all those safety devices, whew, it's daunting, not to mention costly.

Let's measure the convenience and safety of automation against the cost of installation. If you have a double swing driveway gate that you want automated, there are several things to consider. There are arm mounted and pad mounted operators; the latter option, being the more expensive one. If your gate is being installed on a flat area, no slope, and your gate weighs less than about 500 pounds, then an arm mounted operator might be just fine for you. There is other criteria to take into consider, such as length of the gate, but we’ll leave that to your installer.   The arm mount units are less money than the pad mounted units. You don't have to deal with seeing the large unit sitting offset next to your gate post, and you don’t have to install a concrete pad for it to sit on. The arm mounted unit control box normally mounts right onto your gate post making it less visible. When purchasing an operator, stay in the mid range, don't go too cheap, but you don't have to go too expensive either. Arm units do not accommodate an uphill swing gate, only pad mount units are made for this application.

If you have a situation where you want your gate to open outwards, towards the street, an arm mounted unit can accommodate this feature. There are things to consider before choosing an outward swinging gate. Normally, when someone drives up to your gate, they assume that it will open inwards, so they pull their car right up next to the gate, creating a problem.  I would suggest, that as your absolute last option, to have your driveway gate swing outwards. 

If you install a telephone entry system, the keypad can be mounted a distance from the gate. The driver will normally pull their car up to the keypad, rather than to the gate, giving them some distance for the outward swinging gate to open. Not everyone needs a telephone entry system, and they add additional cost, so an alternative would be to install a sign on the gate that alerts the driver about the swing direction.

It's important to consider safety options when installing gate operators. Most people think that when they have a gate operator installed, it will automatically close behind their car. This will occur only if you have the correct safety devices in place. If you don't, then the gate must be opened, and shut, using a remote like your garage door opener. 

When discussing gate automation, you might hear the term "Loop Detectors" or "Safety Loops" or "Exit Loop", these all apply to safety devices. Loop detectors are a group of wires that are installed into your driveway. Once installed, the loops detect the presence of metal. This detection tells the gate operator not to open or close, eliminating the issue of the gate closing or opening on your vehicle. If you have loop detectors installed, then the operator will close the gate automatically, after sensing that your vehicle is clear and only when it's safe.

An exit loop is also a detector that is installed in your driveway. When you are leaving your property, that loop senses the presence of metal and opens the gate automatically. There is a safety loop that is installed closer to the gate, after the exit loop, which detects the presence of metal too so that the gate won't close on your car until you drive completely through. There are so many wonderful devices available and all to make our lives easier and safer. 

There are also safety edges that are installed right on to the edge of your gate. These edges help to detect objects. Let's not forget photo eyes, they are installed on each side of the gate and are intended to detect the presence of an obstacle when the infrared light beam is interrupted. There are more safety options out there, but we’ll address those at a later date.

The bottom line is, that automating your gate will help make your life easier, you'll use your gate more often, and it's more difficult for the gate to be manually pushed opened, helping to detour strangers. Automating is really a win, win situation.

The Hammered Look, Is it In Vogue?

The materials that are used to fabricate an iron project are varied. There are numerous types of steel that can be used to create an affect. In Europe, you'll find some of the most beautiful examples of iron work. One of the techniques that was used to create these works of art is to hammer the wrought iron material, hence the reference to "The Hammered Look". In order for a black smith to achieve this look, he would heat the wrought iron over hot coals in a forge, when the iron reached the correct temperature; it was removed from the coals and beaten on top of an anvil, with a hammer, until it suited the black smith's needs.

Wrought iron is an iron alloy with very low carbon content, in comparison to steel, and has fibrous inclusions, know as slag. This is what gives it a "grain" resembling wood, which is visible when it is etched or bent to the point of failure. Wrought iron is tough, malleable, ductile and easily welded. Historically, it was known as "commercially pure iron", however, it no longer qualifies because current standards for commercially pure iron require a carbon content of less than 0.008wt% . Demand for wrought iron reached its peak in the 1860s with the adaptation of ironclad warships and railways, but then declined as mild steel became more available.

Wrought iron is no longer produced on a commercial scale. Many products described as wrought iron, such as guard rails, garden furniture and gates, are made of mild steel. They retain that description because they are wrought (worked) by hand.

That same age old look is still attainable today even though the carbon content of iron has changed. You don't need a black smith to achieve the hammered look you want. Although nothing quite compares to the real thing. There are components that can be purchased that resemble hammered material. The hammering is now done by machine, so the indentations are not as random as the hand hammered material. Take a look at some of the hammered materials available, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. You too can have the "Hammered Look" and have a piece of iron work that is totally in Vogue.

Finishes

There are many different options for finishing your completed iron project.  The standard finish is priming and painting, most often in the color black.  There are also patinas, powder coating and specialty paint colors; all cost a little more but may be worth it.  Remember, when you choose to istall iron, it is not intended to last just a few short years, it is intended to be enjoyed for many years to come, sometimes, many generations to come.  If you make a good choice in finishes, and keep up on the maintenance, you'll have a piece that brings you many years of joy.

The good part about choosing to prime and paint your iron is that touch up is easier.  You need to watch out for rusting; and when using iron, trust me,  it will eventually rust.  Keep some touch up paint on hand and spray any areas that look suspicious, or that appear to be rusting or fading.  Unfortunately, any iron finish exposed to sun light will fade over time so you might be able to see the areas where you've touched up.  Sometimes, that can add to the "look" of your iron, espically if you love an old worlde finish.

Powder coating is a baked on finish.  There are numerous colors to choose from and textures too.  Since powder coating is a baked on finish, it tends to last longer, especially around areas where water is present.  Many of the colored finishes are UV protected to help avoid fading.  In most cases, a fabricator has to freight the completed materials to and from a powder coating facility, the freight has to be added, along with the additional cost to powder coat, into the price of the project.

Then there are patinas, a very lovely finish.  This finish is done by hand.  There are many different effects than can be achieved with a patina.  Many different patina colors can be applied.  This is an extremely good finish if you want a Tuscany, or olde world look. 

You can also opt for an unfinished, uncoated, look.  This means, that you will have raw steel.  Raw steel will rust and eventually wear away, but if a true rust finish is what you desire, this may be the option for you.  There are also new processes that are applied to allow steel to immediately rust and then a solution or coating is placed on the steel, this will help to slow down the rusting.  If the later is what you choose, then the iron will have to be oiled at least every two years. 

For indoor jobs, where you would like a contemporary or stainless steel look, plain steel can again be used.  The steel is sanded to bring out a shinier finish and then an application of Penetrol oil is applied.  This type of finish cannot be used outdoors and this finish has to be maintained.

I would encourage you to look on line, do your homework, and choose a finish that will work for you, your lifestyle and that will make your iron design a true work of art.
 

Ornate or Contemporary . . . What Design Should I Choose?

When I meet many of my clients for the first time, they are under the impression that a simpler iron design is less costly than something more intricate, so they compromise on the design they really desire in the name of cost savings. I'm here to tell you, that having a simple design is not always the least expensive way to go. Most of the steel components, such as scrolls, picket collars and gate toppers are now purchased directly from a supplier, still very well made and lovely to look at.  These components are no longer hand forged in a shop by a blacksmith.  Unfortunately, blacksmithing is somewhat of a dying art today, too labor intensive making the cost of the end product out of reach for the general buying public.

There are a few suppliers that sell hand forged, really beautifully made, iron products. These products can be purchased by an iron shop at a fraction of the cost of what it would cost for a skilled iron smith to forge them. Therefore, by adding some scroll work, baskets or picket collars to your project can be more affordable than you think, and can sometimes lower the price of the project. Often, by purchasing larger scroll designs, and integrating them into a project, your project becomes more budget friendly than a contemporary design that requires larger materials, and more of them.  The more, or larger, materials that are used increases the  weight of the project, the more weight the longer it takes to make and the harder it is to handle the materials.  This increases fabrication time, making the project difficult to work with and in the end can cost more. . . labor is what costs, not necessarily the materials!

I'm just saying; don't be shy to ask about different prices for varied designs. Go to different websites, print out designs that you like, show your fabricator those designs. They may not be able to match a design exactly at the price your willing to pay, but there are options that will bring you closer to the "look" you want to achieve without breaking the bank.